We use the switch with roller on the end of the lever. We had some spare switches from our CNC parts bins, but you can get them from McMaster for a few bucks. That's why I am waiting for a major component failure before we commit.įor those looking for a better Z homing solution, we are using a micro snap acting switch that's mounted to the back panel and is position so the back right Z bearing block triggers it. I do not look forward to making the changes required. > I have even manufactured a add on board to make this as easy as possible. you can still use all the Kisslicer configurations with out the problems. > You get to Keep the machine in it original look and condition.
> All you need to do is re program the CubeX controller to there 5.4.2 software and make a wiring change removing the circuity form the head.
The rewiring of the cube X to Rambo or what ever. > Yes I have a vested interest in the alternative but it because I believe its a much better option. I am sorry I was not trying to cast any dispersion on the conversion. but it a world of testing and configuring and most people don't want this. On Monday, Septem4:59:49 PM UTC-6, Rodney Wells wrote: These are really just two separate paths towards better quality that will hopefully converge someday! Over all, I think that configuration to FDM machines in both firmware and slicer technology are critical to high quality prints, and add ons like yours will continue to enable the plug and play user to be more effective at producing quality prints. Hopefully ther will be a solution that makes heated beds and high temp printing a safer experience for everyone. I for one would like to see the open source community work on reliable solutions (outside of firmware) to safety issues that have (I assume) been worked out by Cubify regarding thermal run away in machines like the cubeX. I do think that the chassis has a lot of potential and the open source community will continue to develope better solutions to many of the firmware and electronics problems. It's not for the plug and play user for sure.
The conversion process is not easy, takes thorough planning and an appetite for trial and error. I'm definitely in agreement with you Rodney. With out the case installed, I'm able to print both pla and abs, but will be working on a fan addition for the carriage as the steppers are taking a lot of heat. I've also added on two diagonal cross braces (front top to bottom rear), nearly eliminating the bed shake, but still need to do some fine tuning for a clearance issue with the top left cable chain support (a knife job to the printed part got the fit right temporarily). Quality and control has gone up significantly. 12, although I need to perfect a few things in KISSlicer to get rid of some seam and blobbing imperfections, and come up with a better z stop adjuster. Had to run dual 30A power supplies, one for the bed (controlled via marlin in bang bang mode with a relay to allow the separate power supply to power the bed) and one for the hot end and everything else. I have a heated 12x12 pcb bed, printing on glass with kapton and e3d hotends. I'm using an Arduino with RAMPS 1.4/marlin and LCD with SD reader add on. If you have the time/skills to hack on them it may be worth your time. When we do the Rambo conversion we will likely switch to an LCD, heated bed system and power supply from Lulzbot.įor others following I will say the CubeX linear motion, extruder and frame hardware are worth some money. We have also removed the the second extruder from the carriage to reduce mass and it does seem to position much smoother. However, we never push the print speeds very hard as we are more interested in accuracy.
We feed it from the top while the spools ride on some custom holders we printed.
We are running 1.75mm Pro ABS from Matter Hackers without any issues. Interior cabinet temp runs about 80-90 degrees F when both printers are running for several hours.
We have two of these printers and they are both stuffed in a custom cabinet that runs it's own fans to circulate air and keep cold drafts off the part. PLA is not an option once you make this change. All the big fans on the carriage have been reversed to cool the extruder motors and not blow directly on the part. Temp measured with a Fluke IR thermometer at 120 for first layer and ~110 for rest. We print ABS on glass with purple glue stick from Elmers.
We are using heated beds based on the Mk1 PCB, but it's all manual control with a variable voltage external power supply. Really just waiting for a hardware failure to motivate me to make the change. Right now we are having OK luck with the stock hardware running Kisslicer/CubeIt. I hope to get back to this project in the next few months.